Nitrous classes will be held at least once per month
and will be coming to a city near you......
This class is so good that I guarantee it 100%........The biggest problem we have with this class is that it's so good that NOBODY
tells their friends or buddies about it because they want to use the knowledge to outrun their friends/buddies.......You may laugh and think I'm kidding
but that's no BS......Think about it, if this class was no good and overpriced, it'd be ALL over the internet and Trash or Be Trashed on YellowBullet.com,
and it isn't.....
Believe me, you'll get your money's worth.......
We're trying to get another class together in Oklahoma City, South Carolina, New Jersey and one in Florida......If you'd like to attend one, give me a call
and we'll make it happen ..........Cost has been lowered and will be $350/person, unless you prepay at least two weeks in advance and then it will be
$250/person. Class will run from 8 to 4.......
We've got locations lined up in
Columbus, Ohio, Vegas, Detroit, Indy, and
Minneanapolis.........If you are from any of those cities
and are interested in coming to one of the classes, email or
call me and we'll work on getting a date set......If you're from somewhere else and want a class to come to your area, give me a call............
Call 918-274-HEMI for future locations, dates, and times.........

I guarantee that you will walk away from this class being within the top 10% of the nitrous racers in the World.....
You WILL know how to read spark plugs and you will KNOW when to jet your system up or down.......
This class is not about where nitrous came from.......This Class is all about teaching YOU how to tune your motor.....
We are NOT going to try to sell you NOS Brand equipment.......I've had quite a few emails asking if this class is
just a question and answer session.......No, it's a LOT more than that......We're on a mission to TEACH you the
in's and out's of tuning your nitrous motor.... YOU WILL NOT BE DISSAPOINTED IN THIS CLASS, I GUARANTEE
IT, or your money back....so you've got nothing to lose and only knowledge to gain......
This
class will be taught by Monte Smith who is the Motorsports Technical
Representative for Nitrous Oxide Systems.....
Monte has tuned everything from 75HP shot plate systems to 3 stage
Foggers and knows how to do it correctly without hurting
parts.......
In 2008 Monte tuned Thomas "Slick" Meyers ProMod Corvette and they went ALL of 2008 and never even hurt a piston
while running the 4th quickest ET ever of 3.94 in the 1/8th (the record was a 3.92)........They only had the heads
off two times all season to freshen the motor with a new set of rings and bearings.......
Monte will cover all the basics, blow all of the wive's tales out of
the water, and help you get the most out of your nitrous system.........
How many times have you heard the local "nitrous expert" or "nitrous engine builder" say something along the
lines of; "I buy pistons 10 at a time for a reason".........Well, the reason is that he doesn't understand how to
tune a motor and it's not because he's running his motors "on the ragged edge"........If a guy tells you that kind of
crap, THEN RUN FOR YOUR LIFE!!!.....Get out of there.....He's the wrong guy to be spending your money with.......If
a ProMod car can run all year long without ever hurting a piston, and the local "nitrous expert's" 1,500HP motor
can't take more than 10 passes without grenading, something's wrong.......After this class, you'll be light years
ahead of that guy and you WILL understand why he's wrong............
How many times have you, or have you seen someone "step up" their
system and the car runs the same or even slows down???
There's a reason for that....and after this class, you WILL know why......
How much have you spent blowing up and repairing your motor??? Monte
can save you money, answer any all of your questions, and help you get
the most out of your combo.......YOU WILL LEARN A LOT IN THIS
CLASS...........
Check out this artice about Monte and the new NOS Launcher
here.
Call early to reserve your seat!!!
This class isn't about Monte selling his service or
product, it's about teaching YOU how to tune your motor to run as good
as possible............You will learn a LOT more than what you could get just off an internet forum or nitrous tech line.......
If you don't learn anything in this class, I want to shake your hand
and I'll gladly give your money back!!!
Here's a little to give you an idea of what's going to be talked about....These are some things Monte's
talked about on different internet forums that I've just copied and
pasted;
I know the NOS suggested jetting is larger on the fuel and that will be
dead rich. Will it run? Sure. Will it hurt anything? Likely not at
these low HP levels. Are you getting near what you should from the kit?
Absolutely not. It has been preached for years that "rich is safe" and
most guys tend to believe it, but that could not be farther from the
truth. Excess fuel just beats the crap out of the rings. 99% percent of
nitrous related engines failures are from too much fuel, too much
timing, or both. It is EXTREMELY rare to burn a motor by getting the
nitrous system too lean. Barring a mechanical malfunction or an
extremely bonehead tune up change, that is nearly impossible to do.
As far as A/F numbers, for some reason, people seem to think nitrous
motors need to run way richer than they do in N/A form...again, not
true. As an example, if your motor makes best power N/A at around a
13:1 A/F ratio, a moderate nitrous tune (less than 250 hp) will be fine
at that same 13:1 A/F ratio, provided you get the timing correct.
Although I would not suggest you go straight to these numbers, I run
the 632 in the drag radial car, at about 13:5.1 A/F ratio, with about
600hp worth of spray. The Pro-Mod car also runs over 13:1.1 with over
900hp worth of juice. Anything in the 9,10, or 11 range, on spray, is
DEAD RICH.
Fuel color on the end of the plug, on the flat face, the last couple
threads, or whatever, has nothing to do with the tune up. That is from
idling, driving it back, or something similar. The mixture is read at
the very base of the porcelain and if you can see a ring of color with
your naked eye, you are DEAD RICH. The base of the porcelain should be
a clean white and if there is color there, it should take a magnifying
plug light to see it and it should be very faint. At this point, you
will be somewhat close. Dark specs is usually detonation and the fact
that you described your straps as a "grey color" sounds to me like you
have too much lead in the motor. If the strap or end of the plug looks
like it has been hot, such as this "grey color" you describe, it is
generally over timed. If the gaps open after a run or the sharp edges
are no longer sharp, you are over timed. Depending on the plug you run,
there will be no "heat line" on the strap. If you run NGKs (and you
should) and see a "heat line", you are over timed. The proper tune will
deliver a plug that is scary clean on the porcelain and a strap that
takes on a little of a dusty cinnamon color on the strap....
You did not ask, but one other thing, the weather does NOT
change your tune up. Does not matter if it is 30 or 130 outside, it is
always cold in that intake. Once you have the mixture right, the only
thing you have to change for good or bad air is the timing.
And "rich" is not safe. You have to do something horribly stupid to get
a motor lean enough to burn it. You will slow the car down before you
get it lean enough to burn a piston. An overly rich tune, on the other
hand will beat pistons out of the motor in short order. 90% of "burned
pistons" are caused by a rich tune.
A public forum is the worst possible place to get advice on nitrous,
unless you are fishing for advice on WHO can help you. Everyone has a
different idea and tries to convince you to go their way and tell you
the other guys don't know what they are talking about. Help at the
track is the same way. My advice, find someone you trust and work with
that and only that person. You can listen to everybody else, just don't
do what they say until you and your selected tuner talk about it.
People have different ideas and methods.
Me for example, I don't run anywhere near suggested company jetting in
my tune ups and this scares some guys away. But I know those patterns
are generally at least 30% rich to cover their backsides. I know this
because I test the stuff on a flow bench. I don't use mathematical jet
area formulas that don't work, I use real world numbers. I also don't
like low pressure tune ups. I don't really care that most people use
5-6lb tune ups, I prefer a higher fuel pressure and change the jetting
patterns accordingly. So like I said, pick someone you trust, deal with
them and stay off this board on this issue.
...
The only other thing I would say, is based on what you listed above and
how you say the plugs look. It sounds like you are running too much
spark lead....As far as troubleshooting your system, make sure both
coils are working. Past that, take the nitrous solenoid apart and check
for trash and make sure the plunger is good and has no nipple on it. A
nitrous solenoid only opens .040. A bump on the plunger will easily cut
the nitrous flow in half, resulting in a seriously rich tune.
This is strictly my opinion gained from my own testing on the flow
bench, so I am not trying to start an argument or dog any specific
product. To me, the perimeter plates, cone diffusers, or any other such
gimmick plates, are strictly that, a gimmick. While they may work great
on certain intakes, they may be equally as bad on others, because of
port layout and design.
The magazine shootout that was conducted a couple years ago on the
small ford is a prime example. The Wilson plate won that shootout hands
down, but it was only by luck, as the angle of the end holes on that
plate happened to match the layout of that intake perfectly. I have
seen that plate on other intakes and the ends runners got virtually
nothing. Generally, at hp levels of 175 or less, distribution is a not
a huge problem, but higher power levels and bad distribution will soon
equal trouble. So what does all this mean? Again, only my opinion, but
the hands down best all around plate for 90% of intakes is some type of
"double cross" plate where all 4 bars come on at once. NOS makes one,
so does Cold Fusion. Wilson has a similar plate, but they market it as
a 2 stage. One set of bars comes on, then the second, not good. Works
good if you make all the bars come on at once and both sets of bars are
jetted alike.
Another thing about Wilson plates that I find amusing. I have seen
nitrous backfires destroy hoods, front ends and intakes. Most all
nitrous backfires occur when your foot is on the floor and the throttle
blades are wide open. That is a large area of open throttle bores. What
good is a couple nickel sized burst panels going to do when you already
have the carb open? Just another gimmick. I am not knocking Wilson
stuff. I like it, have used it and it is well made, but if the burst
panels are what is pushing you that direction, save your money.
I would say that once you get into the 900+ HP level, on motor or
nitrous, you need more shock. The Strange shock can be revalved. I have
done this and they work fine, but if I was buying a new shock for a car
at this power level, I would step up. Although the Santhuff is likely
the best, most people balk at $1000 for a pair of shocks. I really like
the Afcos and their new "T-2" shock is a really nice shock for around
$700 a pair for double adjustables. For bigger power, the Afco "M-1" is
a nitrogen charged shock with an external gas canister. We tested these
on a Pro-Mod car with very good results. I thought enough of the Afcos
to become a dealer. I know they are expensive and most people don't
think they need a double adjustable shock, but you will be surprised
what you can get out of a good set of shocks...provided you have a
decent car. It amazes me the people that spend thousands of dollars on
their motor and have $30 3-ways on their car and then complain it won't
hook.
Every nitrous company, I repeat EVERY nitrous company buys their
solenoids from either Peter/Paul electronics or Parker. The only
exception is some of the new billet solenoids from NX and noswizard.
The only testing I have done on the billet units, revealed lower total
flow numbers, than the old style solenoids, so I don't have
comprehensive numbers on these. Solenoids from PP or Parker, are all
basically the same. You specify the amperage coil you want, orifice
size, plunger material, etc. but other than that, they are all the
same. Personally, the use of the large orifice fuel solenoids is a
waste to me. Your nitrous/ fuel ratio will be somewhere between 5:1-7:1
depending on the tune, so you simply don't need the large fuel
solenoids and the larger orifice can require radically different tune
ups as well.
I also don't like high amp draw coils. I asked Mike Woods(NX) about
this once and his reply was that he wanted his solenoids to open under
any circumstance. Well I don't. If the bottle pressure is out of sight,
I would rather the solenoid not open. Which would you rather lose, a
round, because your bottle was way hot and the solenoid would not open
it?...or a motor, because your bottle was 1300psi and your high amp
solenoid WOULD open it?
The high amp stuff also draws heavily on your electrical system. Some
nitrous companies also port the inlet of the nitrous solenoids, I won't
say who, thinking that this porting helps the flow, but in actual real
world testing, just kills the flow of the solenoid. Again, it will
work, but his tune ups will be way out in left field compared to what
you are used to. As far as replacing solenoids after a period of time,
there is no need. They don't wear out, there is nothing to wear out.
You replace the plunger and the electrical coil and the solenoid is
basically new. Plungers are the only real wear or maint item and they
get beat up by stinging them with high bottle pressures or leaving your
bottle on all the time with pressure on them. The pressure swells the
plungers, which reduce flow. A plunger only lifts .040 when a solenoid
is open, so if it is swelled, it can easily cut your nitrous flow in
half.
Bottom line, they all work, but orifice size, ported and
others items, all change the tune up. That is why you don't see me on
here throwing out random tune up numbers, because the solenoid size and
type can make a huge difference. As can the type jet and brand of jets.
The vast difference in parts is what keeps people like me in business,
because the more you mix and match, the more out in left field you can
get. It can all be made to work and work well, but unless you have a
flow bench to get real world numbers, the chances of actually figuring
it out on the car are slim.
Monte
Here's the
LINK to Monte's website so you guys can check out his client list...............
After Jerry Humphry came to the Tulsa class he went home and tuned his stock
suspension Mustang up........Previous best was a 5.45 @ 135 at 3,433LBS
with 28X10.5 slicks................Car's got a 580" big block Chevy
with BMF 385 heads and a glide......The 5.45 runs was with 32N28F jets
delayed out for 1 second and it had a 1.40 60' time.......Jerry took
the car out after the class and on it's first run ran a 1.31 60' and
broke the input shaft about 300' out.......Car still ran a 3.66 to the
330...........
As soon as Jerry gets the transmission
fixed, I'll post an update on what it's running......

Jerry
Humphry's TESTIMONIAL
We had been running pretty consistent with our 10.5 Extreme street
Mustang but we knew the car had more potential. My race partner had
seen an advertisement for Smothers / Monte Smith nitrous class on a
popular 10.5 racing website so we decided to take a chance and see if
we could learn something.
Jerry found out that the class was available in Tulsa, Oklahoma so we
made arrangements to be there. The class started out with nitrous
basics and worked its way to advanced theory and application.
After the class we used Monte's suggested nitrous tune up and took the
car out to the track. The first thing we noticed was how clean the car
“nitrous – revved” = virtually no fuel smoke. The car pulled to the
line and we launched on the plate and switched over to the Foggers at
8tenths out. When the 2nd stage came on the car pulled harder than
ever, about 300ft out it twisted the input shaft on the glide.
Montes class enabled us to safely lean our fogger out and make more
power than we had ever made before and the NGK’s looked absolutely
perfect (thanks for showing how to properly read plugs). The class went
in many directions and is not just about nitrous it also included basic
chassis setup for 10.5 and ProMods.
We would recommend this class to anyone that thinks they know all they
need to know about nitrous and to the novice that knows nothing about
nitrous. The only people I do not recommend this class to is our
competitors in TTT5 and Oklahoma 10.5 racing.
Thanks,
MPKPerformance
Here
are some more miscellaneous testimonials copied and pasted off www.midweststreetcars.com.....
I just wanna give a big thank you to Monte Smith for his nitrous class today. I must say that I did learn alot and
I was very impressed with what he had to offer. He is a very smart guy in every field, from engines to nitrous, and
chassis and car setup. He seems to have a good grasp on what it takes to run fast and not hurt parts. Thanks! Big
Chief
I will second that. Class was great.....Doc.
Very informative class, learned a lot... Big thanks Monte!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Monzilla
Monte Smith knows his stuff and I was very impressed with the knowledge he passed on. I figured with the
price he charged, we would get HALF of what he had to offer, but I was told that most people would pay the class
price just for the small booklet of info that was handed out. It is packed with helpful tuning guides. I planned on
going to this class with the attitude of "I know enough to make my stuff run", but I promise you after this class
all I thought I knew got thrown out the window.
Huge Thanks to Monte Smith, I'll be in touch!!!!!!
David
I definately want to thank Monte. The class was excellent and as a nitrous "rookie", I found the class to be full
of great information. I feel much more comfortable with everything after leaving the class, and I was really
impressed that Monte had vast experience in everything from nitrous, building race motors, building chassis cars,
etc. The only thing I felt I didn't get from today, was a couple of flour tortillas from the restaurant cause
Chief scarfed them down.
JC.
I also would like to thank Monty Smith. The things I learned in his class are unreal. I didn't think I would get that
much from a nitrous class....I was wrong. Being that I'm about to put my first Nitrous system on, I was very nervous
about hitting that button. After taking that class, I KNOW that if my motor has the correct tune in it, I can spary
the hell out of it and not worry so much......and what I would have called a "clean" plug, wouldn't work for Monty.
I couldn't believe how clean his "used" plugs were. I would definatly go to another class that Monty puts on.
Big Squeeze (Wayne Smothers)---Thanks to you not only for doing your part to right a wrong....but also for talking
me into going. I admit I was a bit sceptical, but I'm certainly glad I went!
Russel
Here
are a few more miscellaneous testimonials from Monte Smith Customers.....
"I was able to easily set the TDRA Cheap Street record in 2008 after Monte Smith Performance modified my single stage 4150 NOS Big Shot Plate.
Also, Monte provided great service that was fast as well. "
-- Robert Hollingsworth, Owner & Driver
"After switching to Monte Smith Performance for all my NOS and racing engines needs I was able to move to the front of the field in ORSCA EZ Street and Outlaw Drag Radial."
-- Chad Henderson, Owner & Driver
"We had no time to test our car on a 1/4 mile track, and we needed it to
be fast the first pass on the track.........."NO PROBLEM" was Monte
Smiths answer, the car flew and the Engine ran flawless thanks to a
great tune by Monte Smith!!!! We cannot say enough about how much we
learned from his wealth of knowledge. Thank you Monte !!!!!!"
--El Camino High School Drag Race High Team.
"Working with Monte enabled us to make significant strides in our testing of
the GM Performance Parts LSX compontents.We race the GM Performance Parts/Horsepower TV Super Nova Nostalgia Pro Street Nova. We run a LSX 440 Cubinc inch small block in a class dominated by big blocks.
Monte's insight to the entire package allowed us to move the the next
several levels in our program. At the NMCA Superbowl race in July 2008 we
qualified with our best ever run of 7.81 at 179 miles per hour. We backed
that run up the next day with a 7.77 @ 177. We now stand as the quickest and
fastest LSx Nitrous car by almost 5 tenths"--Robin Lawrence, Owner & Driver
"There were 8 ORSCA races in 2008. We went to 5 finals, two semi-finals, won 3 races, were number 1 qualifier at 6 races, reset the ET or MPH record 5 times and won the Modified Street, Championship. All this over the course of the season and never had the motor apart other than to freshen it up. Hard to beat that for a season" --Martin McClemore/Stacy Parker
Last
updated
12/11/08
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