Smothers Tuned SuperCars

I guarantee that you will walk away from this class being within the top 10% of the nitrous racers in the World..... You WILL know how to read spark plugs and you will KNOW when to jet your system up or down....... This class is not about where nitrous came from.......This Class is all about teaching YOU how to tune your motor..... We are NOT going to try to sell you NOS Brand equipment.......I've had quite a few emails asking if this class is just a question and answer session.......No, it's a LOT more than that......We're on a mission to TEACH you the in's and out's of tuning your nitrous motor....
YOU WILL NOT BE DISSAPOINTED IN THIS CLASS, I GUARANTEE IT, or your money back....so you've got nothing to lose and only knowledge to gain......

This class will be taught by Monte Smith who is the Motorsports Technical Representative for Nitrous Oxide Systems..... Monte has tuned everything from 75HP shot plate systems to 3 stage Foggers and knows how to do it correctly without hurting parts.......

In 2008 Monte tuned Thomas "Slick" Meyers ProMod Corvette and they went ALL of 2008 and never even hurt a piston while running the 4th quickest ET ever of 3.94 in the 1/8th (the record was a 3.92)........They only had the heads off two times all season to freshen the motor with a new set of rings and bearings.......

Monte will cover all the basics, blow all of the wive's tales out of the water, and help you get the most out of your nitrous system.........

How many times have you heard the local "nitrous expert" or "nitrous engine builder" say something along the lines of; "I buy pistons 10 at a time for a reason".........Well, the reason is that he doesn't understand how to tune a motor and it's not because he's running his motors "on the ragged edge"........If a guy tells you that kind of crap, THEN RUN FOR YOUR LIFE!!!.....Get out of there.....He's the wrong guy to be spending your money with.......If a ProMod car can run all year long without ever hurting a piston, and the local "nitrous expert's" 1,500HP motor can't take more than 10 passes without grenading, something's wrong.......After this class, you'll be light years ahead of that guy and you WILL understand why he's wrong............

How many times have you, or have you seen someone "step up" their system and the car runs the same or even slows down??? There's a reason for that....and after this class, you WILL know why......

How much have you spent blowing up and repairing your motor??? Monte can save you money, answer any all of your questions, and help you get the most out of your combo.......YOU WILL LEARN A LOT IN THIS CLASS...........

Check out this artice about Monte and the new NOS Launcher here.

Call early to reserve your seat!!!

This class isn't about Monte selling his service or product, it's about teaching YOU how to tune your motor to run as good as possible............You will learn a LOT more than what you could get just off an internet forum or nitrous tech line.......

If you don't learn anything in this class, I want to shake your hand and I'll gladly give your money back!!!

Here's a little to give you an idea of what's going to be talked about....These are some things Monte's talked about on different internet forums that I've just copied and pasted;

I know the NOS suggested jetting is larger on the fuel and that will be dead rich. Will it run? Sure. Will it hurt anything? Likely not at these low HP levels. Are you getting near what you should from the kit? Absolutely not. It has been preached for years that "rich is safe" and most guys tend to believe it, but that could not be farther from the truth. Excess fuel just beats the crap out of the rings. 99% percent of nitrous related engines failures are from too much fuel, too much timing, or both. It is EXTREMELY rare to burn a motor by getting the nitrous system too lean. Barring a mechanical malfunction or an extremely bonehead tune up change, that is nearly impossible to do.

As far as A/F numbers, for some reason, people seem to think nitrous motors need to run way richer than they do in N/A form...again, not true. As an example, if your motor makes best power N/A at around a 13:1 A/F ratio, a moderate nitrous tune (less than 250 hp) will be fine at that same 13:1 A/F ratio, provided you get the timing correct. Although I would not suggest you go straight to these numbers, I run the 632 in the drag radial car, at about 13:5.1 A/F ratio, with about 600hp worth of spray. The Pro-Mod car also runs over 13:1.1 with over 900hp worth of juice. Anything in the 9,10, or 11 range, on spray, is DEAD RICH.

Fuel color on the end of the plug, on the flat face, the last couple threads, or whatever, has nothing to do with the tune up. That is from idling, driving it back, or something similar. The mixture is read at the very base of the porcelain and if you can see a ring of color with your naked eye, you are DEAD RICH. The base of the porcelain should be a clean white and if there is color there, it should take a magnifying plug light to see it and it should be very faint. At this point, you will be somewhat close. Dark specs is usually detonation and the fact that you described your straps as a "grey color" sounds to me like you have too much lead in the motor. If the strap or end of the plug looks like it has been hot, such as this "grey color" you describe, it is generally over timed. If the gaps open after a run or the sharp edges are no longer sharp, you are over timed. Depending on the plug you run, there will be no "heat line" on the strap. If you run NGKs (and you should) and see a "heat line", you are over timed. The proper tune will deliver a plug that is scary clean on the porcelain and a strap that takes on a little of a dusty cinnamon color on the strap....
You did not ask, but one other thing, the weather does NOT change your tune up. Does not matter if it is 30 or 130 outside, it is always cold in that intake. Once you have the mixture right, the only thing you have to change for good or bad air is the timing. And "rich" is not safe. You have to do something horribly stupid to get a motor lean enough to burn it. You will slow the car down before you get it lean enough to burn a piston. An overly rich tune, on the other hand will beat pistons out of the motor in short order. 90% of "burned pistons" are caused by a rich tune.

A public forum is the worst possible place to get advice on nitrous, unless you are fishing for advice on WHO can help you. Everyone has a different idea and tries to convince you to go their way and tell you the other guys don't know what they are talking about. Help at the track is the same way. My advice, find someone you trust and work with that and only that person. You can listen to everybody else, just don't do what they say until you and your selected tuner talk about it. People have different ideas and methods.
Me for example, I don't run anywhere near suggested company jetting in my tune ups and this scares some guys away. But I know those patterns are generally at least 30% rich to cover their backsides. I know this because I test the stuff on a flow bench. I don't use mathematical jet area formulas that don't work, I use real world numbers. I also don't like low pressure tune ups. I don't really care that most people use 5-6lb tune ups, I prefer a higher fuel pressure and change the jetting patterns accordingly. So like I said, pick someone you trust, deal with them and stay off this board on this issue. ...
The only other thing I would say, is based on what you listed above and how you say the plugs look. It sounds like you are running too much spark lead....As far as troubleshooting your system, make sure both coils are working. Past that, take the nitrous solenoid apart and check for trash and make sure the plunger is good and has no nipple on it. A nitrous solenoid only opens .040. A bump on the plunger will easily cut the nitrous flow in half, resulting in a seriously rich tune.

This is strictly my opinion gained from my own testing on the flow bench, so I am not trying to start an argument or dog any specific product. To me, the perimeter plates, cone diffusers, or any other such gimmick plates, are strictly that, a gimmick. While they may work great on certain intakes, they may be equally as bad on others, because of port layout and design.
The magazine shootout that was conducted a couple years ago on the small ford is a prime example. The Wilson plate won that shootout hands down, but it was only by luck, as the angle of the end holes on that plate happened to match the layout of that intake perfectly. I have seen that plate on other intakes and the ends runners got virtually nothing. Generally, at hp levels of 175 or less, distribution is a not a huge problem, but higher power levels and bad distribution will soon equal trouble. So what does all this mean? Again, only my opinion, but the hands down best all around plate for 90% of intakes is some type of "double cross" plate where all 4 bars come on at once. NOS makes one, so does Cold Fusion. Wilson has a similar plate, but they market it as a 2 stage. One set of bars comes on, then the second, not good. Works good if you make all the bars come on at once and both sets of bars are jetted alike.
Another thing about Wilson plates that I find amusing. I have seen nitrous backfires destroy hoods, front ends and intakes. Most all nitrous backfires occur when your foot is on the floor and the throttle blades are wide open. That is a large area of open throttle bores. What good is a couple nickel sized burst panels going to do when you already have the carb open? Just another gimmick. I am not knocking Wilson stuff. I like it, have used it and it is well made, but if the burst panels are what is pushing you that direction, save your money.

I would say that once you get into the 900+ HP level, on motor or nitrous, you need more shock. The Strange shock can be revalved. I have done this and they work fine, but if I was buying a new shock for a car at this power level, I would step up. Although the Santhuff is likely the best, most people balk at $1000 for a pair of shocks. I really like the Afcos and their new "T-2" shock is a really nice shock for around $700 a pair for double adjustables. For bigger power, the Afco "M-1" is a nitrogen charged shock with an external gas canister. We tested these on a Pro-Mod car with very good results. I thought enough of the Afcos to become a dealer. I know they are expensive and most people don't think they need a double adjustable shock, but you will be surprised what you can get out of a good set of shocks...provided you have a decent car. It amazes me the people that spend thousands of dollars on their motor and have $30 3-ways on their car and then complain it won't hook.

Every nitrous company, I repeat EVERY nitrous company buys their solenoids from either Peter/Paul electronics or Parker. The only exception is some of the new billet solenoids from NX and noswizard. The only testing I have done on the billet units, revealed lower total flow numbers, than the old style solenoids, so I don't have comprehensive numbers on these. Solenoids from PP or Parker, are all basically the same. You specify the amperage coil you want, orifice size, plunger material, etc. but other than that, they are all the same. Personally, the use of the large orifice fuel solenoids is a waste to me. Your nitrous/ fuel ratio will be somewhere between 5:1-7:1 depending on the tune, so you simply don't need the large fuel solenoids and the larger orifice can require radically different tune ups as well.
I also don't like high amp draw coils. I asked Mike Woods(NX) about this once and his reply was that he wanted his solenoids to open under any circumstance. Well I don't. If the bottle pressure is out of sight, I would rather the solenoid not open. Which would you rather lose, a round, because your bottle was way hot and the solenoid would not open it?...or a motor, because your bottle was 1300psi and your high amp solenoid WOULD open it?
The high amp stuff also draws heavily on your electrical system. Some nitrous companies also port the inlet of the nitrous solenoids, I won't say who, thinking that this porting helps the flow, but in actual real world testing, just kills the flow of the solenoid. Again, it will work, but his tune ups will be way out in left field compared to what you are used to. As far as replacing solenoids after a period of time, there is no need. They don't wear out, there is nothing to wear out. You replace the plunger and the electrical coil and the solenoid is basically new. Plungers are the only real wear or maint item and they get beat up by stinging them with high bottle pressures or leaving your bottle on all the time with pressure on them. The pressure swells the plungers, which reduce flow. A plunger only lifts .040 when a solenoid is open, so if it is swelled, it can easily cut your nitrous flow in half.
Bottom line, they all work, but orifice size, ported and others items, all change the tune up. That is why you don't see me on here throwing out random tune up numbers, because the solenoid size and type can make a huge difference. As can the type jet and brand of jets. The vast difference in parts is what keeps people like me in business, because the more you mix and match, the more out in left field you can get. It can all be made to work and work well, but unless you have a flow bench to get real world numbers, the chances of actually figuring it out on the car are slim.

Monte

Here's the LINK to Monte's website so you guys can check out his client list...............